1. International 300 Utility Tractor

Been thinking for awhile about how to write this this post. Tough to admit but I need to swallow some pride and come clean.I need serious input maintaining my 'new' 300 utility tractor!

(Don't have time for a long story.skip to the bottom for questions and pictures.!) Problem is I didn't know how uninformed (dumb) I was until after I bought the tractor and started reading this forum! Some back story might be in order. I'm the last of 6 kids, 3 born in Philadelphia the rest born 45 minutes outside the city in 'the country' or 'the sticks' as it was called by my city relatives. In the early 50's My pop, an amazing carpenter, and a bit ahead of his time, decided to move his growing family from a city row home to new house, built by family, on a 4 acre lot. Here's the tractor part. Like many of our neighbors, all who had 4 to 10 acre lots we had a Farmall Cub. You real farmers out there will laugh but we referred to the cub as the 'big tractor' (or, the RED tractor) and man summer or winter we loved that tractor! Growing up whether it was cars, trucks or tractors, my brothers did all of the serious mechanical work.

Turns out I was the kid born without the mechanical gene. Make no mistake to this day I'm good for grunt work and don't mind getting my hands dirty, I just didn't have the mechanical instinct my brothers had.

Fast forward. All of us are now in our 50's and 60's. My next oldest brother tracked down and almost bought our old cub but instead had to settle for the closest match he could find. That ignited the Red fever and I convinced my wife we needed an old IH tractor to plow snow and cut a few acres of grass in upstate NY where we hope tho retire. After many hours on Craigslist and many many more driving around the country side I found what I think is a great tractor outside of Rutland VT. I'm sure some of you know the usual comments about being crazy for buying an old tractor, finding parts, maintenance etc, etc, etc. It gets tough to explain(especially to my wife) why you gotta have an old tractor and why it's got to be a red tractor.

So now I have this great 300 utility and need serious advice. Mind you, I can only make the almost 6 hour drive up there a half dozen times a year so I have to make the most of limited, quality tractor time. I read a lot here about different manuals. What's the best manual that's going to cover the basics items like servicing fluids, filters etc. (I told you I'm waaay behind) Not expecting a complete description. Just an idea where I should spend my money.

The essential tools I'm gonna I'm going to need. If you want to recommend a brand that would be great. I've got a 3 point hitch. I've read I'm gonna need to get different lower arms in order to attach the used Woods finish mower I'm looking to buy.

The tractor has a front plow attached. Is it recommended I remove the entire rig in the summer and in the winter? I've attached 5 pictures, maybe it will help with the answers. Thanks for your help!

You have a fasthitch, not a 3 point hitch. Easy to buy arms that go into the fasthitch to accommodate a 3 point mower. Google search fast hitch arms to 2 point/3 point - You have posted before and have gotten replies that the steering systems on those 300 utilities aren't the strongest. Having reiterated that, remove the plow and loader arms during the off season. It'll be easier than you think.

Jut be willing to attack the project, learn as you go, and get yourself greasy and skin your knuckles. Experience is the only way you're gonna learn, no matter what any of us tell you.

If you are low on tools for a starting point, start your project and when you get to a point that you need a tool you don't have, run down to your local supply store and buy the tool you need. Usually tools with a lifetime warranty tend to better quality than tools without a lifetime warranty. A lot of your own questions you will answer yourself once you get your hands dirty. 'Owners Manual' for 300 Utility will cover basic maintenance & questions on forum are OK. And so are many pics that are very much appreciated for Red Pleasure & problem diagnosis. If your up for a challenge remove loader plow on front, if up for bigger challenge remove loader boom too.

If up for biggest challenge remove loader & subframe. Take pics of hose connections & any areas U remove pins & bolts. Probably LARGEST challenge would be putting all back on tractor & working.

Rear chains if doing serious pushing and rear weight also.(Fluid in rear tires?) Front wheel weights bolt onto Fast Hitch Drawbar. Basic combination /open end wrenches 1/4' -1 1/4' & 3/8' & 1/2' ratchets with sockets. Ball peen/machinist hammer. #1 & 2 Philips & straight screw drivers, 12' adjustable wrench. Pliers & channel lock pliers, A set of punches & chisel and I could go on & on for tools. If the tach/hour meter in your second picture works and is accurate, a 1380 hour International 300 is unbelievable, that's about 22 operating hours per year.

Call Binder Books for your manuals, you need an Operators manual for operation of the tractor and maintenance and adjustments, and a parts book for exploded parts views, and a Service manual for more complicated repairs. I hope you got a loader bucket with that tractor. That would be very useful. I'd plan on an engine oil & filter change, a hydraulic oil change, and a transmission & rearend oil change. Case/IH HyTran is used in the transmission and hydraulic systems. Your favorite straight 30W would be fine for the engine, or use a 15W-40 diesel oil like Shell To tell a or Mobil Delvac 1300. Thanks NH Red iron!

You can't see it in the picture but centered above the two lower arms there is a place for a 3rd 'arm' which I do have. Does that make a difference? That place for the 3rd arm is for your 'top link'. Usually a turnbuckle with rotating eye holes similar to ball joints on each end. You can run a bush hog without the top link, but you'll never be able to get the bush hog entirely off the ground. Not good if you have a rocky area or uneven ground that you are mowing.

I hitch my bush hog to the two lower links (the 2 points) and raise or lower it until the bush hog is parallel to the ground. Then, maintaining the bush hog at the same height, I attach the turnbuckle (top link) and adjust that so it is snug, or even putting a little tension on the top (3rd point) of the bush hog. Set like this will allow you to lower the mower as close as you'll need to the ground to give it a tight haircut, but it will also be adjusted tight enough so you can lift the entire mower, rear wheel and all, right off the ground and skim over the top of obstacles without hitting them. This will take some getting used to, but you'll get it. Another word of warning; make sure the clutch on your bush hog is adjusted loose enough so it will slip when you hit an obstacle. Notice I didn't say 'if' you hit an obstacle. If you don't have the manual for the bush hog to learn how to adjust the clutch, I'm sure it is a quick google away. Usually takes a ratchet with a 6' extension and the proper socket, with the proper wrench on the backside of that same bolt to hold it from spinning.

Get those hands greasy and you will see everything that everyone has posted come to fruition. Im not an expert on these but you do have a fast hitch 2 point. The extra bracket above you are talking about may have been added to make a 3 point conversion out of it.

Another possible explanation for it is some impmements had a stabilizer ( might not be correct term) that hooked to a bracket like you are descibing if i remember correctly. Thinking maybe some plows Hooked to it? Others might chime in, but you definitely have a 2 point fast hitch. You will need lower adapters that slide in and latch to your existing arms to run 3 point stuff, as well as upper arm. One thing that needs to be checked, or should be checked, is the suction strainer for the hyd oil under the big cast iron hyd reservoir cover below the seat. Especially if you have hyd cylinders that drift quickly or won't hold internal pressure.

That suction screen is kind of a chincy little thing, and they are quite expensive if yours is wrecked. My cousin has a 350U with a 2000 or 2001 loader. He kept having trouble with his power steering. It would only work when he pulled a lever for the remotes.

I found the screen for the power steering orifice plugged with leather. Oh yeah, his loader would not even hold itself up, so he wedged a piece of angle iron in it to hold it up. Well, the pieces of leather were from the original wore out loader hydraulic cylinder seals. I had already been through all of the valves and the steering assy when he got it, so I knew the leather wasn't from something in there.

And, since it was in the screen for the power steering orifice, it had already made it past the main suction screen, the one under the seat. Will all the junk stuck to the main suction screen, it sucked it closed and imploded it, filling everything in the system with the massive amounts of leather junk. Just something to look at if you have hyd issues. That's a real nice original tractor!

If the tach/hour meter in your second picture works and is accurate, a 1380 hour International 300 is unbelievable, that's about 22 operating hours per year. Call Binder Books for your manuals, you need an Operators manual for operation of the tractor and maintenance and adjustments, and a parts book for exploded parts views, and a Service manual for more complicated repairs. I hope you got a loader bucket with that tractor.

That would be very useful. I'd plan on an engine oil & filter change, a hydraulic oil change, and a transmission & rearend oil change. Case/IH HyTran is used in the transmission and hydraulic systems. Your favorite straight 30W would be fine for the engine, or use a 15W-40 diesel oil like Shell To tell a or Mobil Delvac 1300. Thanks for the great advice.

The manuals will should be a great guide to make sure I get it right. I've received several comments on the tach hours.

I only had access to the tractor for a week and ran it for a couple of hours of plowing snow which did show up on the tach. The farmer who sold me the tractor got it when he took over an adjoining property that he formerly leased??? He was a Ford guy. Holt mcdougal biology 2010 study guide b answer key. (My tractor looked out of place among a small sea of larger blue tractors in his barn) He told me original owner was i guess what you might call a gentleman farmer and used the tractor on intermittent visits. Sounds a bit like the little old lady who only drove the car to church on Sundays! He seemed like a good guy and couldn't of been more helpful before and after the sale. Sounds like you grew up near where I did.

Grandpa drove the '46 A in '52 home from Flowertown PA to Doylestown after buying it in an auction. X2 on generic wrenches being ok for what you are wanting to do.

Bitty, considering the scope of this forum I guess i did grow up pretty close to you! Was a little town called Glen Mills south of the city (near Media pa if your familiar with the area) I imagine it was all farm land at one time but not really sure. Thank you for the advice on the tools,much needed and should help keep my expenses in line. 'Owners Manual' for 300 Utility will cover basic maintenance & questions on forum are OK. And so are many pics that are very much appreciated for Red Pleasure & problem diagnosis. If your up for a challenge remove loader plow on front, if up for bigger challenge remove loader boom too.

If up for biggest challenge remove loader & subframe. Take pics of hose connections & any areas U remove pins & bolts.

Probably LARGEST challenge would be putting all back on tractor & working. Rear chains if doing serious pushing and rear weight also.(Fluid in rear tires?) Front wheel weights bolt onto Fast Hitch Drawbar.

Basic combination /open end wrenches 1/4' -1 1/4' & 3/8' & 1/2' ratchets with sockets. Ball peen/machinist hammer. #1 & 2 Philips & straight screw drivers, 12' adjustable wrench. Pliers & channel lock pliers, A set of punches & chisel and I could go on & on for tools. Thanks Rainman.

Glad to hear that plow removal is a 'doable' option. Didn't realize the full length of the machine until it was trucked to my place. I then realized that trying to maneuver to cut a few acres of semi wooded land with the plow out front and the cutter on the back would be an interesting challenge!

Believe it or not chains closed the deal! We were stuck on a final price as I was trying to stick to a budget and he wanted a little more money. In the end he through in a spare set if chains and I increased my offer a bit. Good deal all around.

Tires are weighted which is a question I have for another day. Not quite sure i know what you mean by 'Front wheel weights bolt onto Fast Hitch Drawbar.'

Thanks for getting specific with the tool's. I only see the tractor intermittently and your list should help make the most of limited time.

Finally I will post pics of projects. Should be entertaining for all! Paul, I put at least 6000 hrs on our 300U from new untill the late 80,s No power steering or TA.

X2 on changing the fluids & checking the suction strainer. The transmission oil uses 80w gear oil not Hytran, fills in a different spot than the hydraulics also the level plug is on the side of the trany. Yours has TA. So should need Hytran. I will look in my owners manual. Thanks for the additional information on the fluids iowaboy.

My operaters manual which came with the tractor is for a 300. It doesn't reference a 300 utility at all and the illustrations do not match my tractor.

International 300 Utility Tractor

Just ordered a new set from binder and AM hoping I don't end up with the same manual. Any experience with this?

Antique International / Farmall Tractor - International 300 Utility - TractorShed.com Parts for Old Tractors or call 800-853-2651 Antique International / Farmall Tractor: International 300 Utility This was International Harvester's first utility-type tractor. It is basically the same as the Farmall 300, but with a higher RPM rated engine. It was low to the ground and easy to maneuver. Do you have any comments or questions about this tractor? Ever use one? Know anyone who owned one?

If so, please join in on the discussion below. Use the for entering your comments. Comments on this Tractor JESUS DELGADO wrote on Thursday, October 10, 2013 (PDT):. I HAVE A IH 350 UTILITY. THE HYDRAULIC PUM IS NOT WORKING PROPERTLY.

IT WORKS FOR A WHILE AND THAN IT STOPS WORKING. ANYONE KNOWS HOW TO FIX IT. WHERE IS THE HYDRAULIC PUMP totfix wrote on Monday, June 24, 2013 (PDT):.

IH 2276.engine;BD144A frontloader;40-1.backhoe;wain roy B1 i need seal/gasket for the backhoe questions;what is the difrens beetwin IH2275 and IH2276 who have spare parts in this wold. To the tractor have a nice day. John cross wrote on Thursday, June 20, 2013 (PDT):. I am looking at a 300 utility. Any thing special I need to check. Ken wrote on Thursday, June 20, 2013 (PDT):.

I bought an old 1956 IH McCormick 300 Torque Amplifier and I need to know what fluid I should put in the Hydrolic unit for the Bucket and Where it add it. Thanks Neil Adams wrote on Monday, June 17, 2013 (PDT):. Dear Bill Gaul; The 300 U had two manual steering boxes that were standard on that tractor. Mine was broke when I bought it and I had to replace it. The one earlier model had a bad steering box and International replaced it with a better one.

They are hard to find but you might try the tractor grave yards on line. One I would suggest is McFaddens in Sharon Springs, N.Y. Marilyn Anderson wrote on Monday, June 03, 2013 (PDT):. I have a replica of a childs 3+ years old 8-16 International kerosene tractor. Scale model by Quality metal toymakers.

Is this worth anything Original bar code and label is 27.99. Model 1-16 made of die-cast zinc and represents the International 8-16 IC Kerosene Tractor. Still in original box. Carolyn wrote on Saturday, June 01, 2013 (PDT):. 1956 utility 300.power steering box was put on it but there is no priority valve to hook to,can anyone help,or is there a retrofit that someone has done.

Bill Gaul wrote on Wednesday, May 22, 2013 (PDT):. My International 300 utility with manual steering broke two teeth off the right side gear that is in the steering box. Any idea where to get one or other steering parts Thanks Please email me. William.j.gaul at usace.army.mil S. Schwartz wrote on Tuesday, May 14, 2013 (PDT):.

Bought some property and found an old International 300 Utility tractor sitting among the bushes. It has a bucket attachment in front and what looks like a box of weights in back.

It makes for a unique lawn ornament. I have a photo but can t find a place to post. Neil Boriskey wrote on Monday, January 23, 2012 (PST):.

I have a 300 utility orchard style tailpipe comming out left rear Have a loader on it and I lost hydraulic pressure to raise and tilt the loader, steering pump whines really bad when i tried to turn, thinking I need to rebuild the hydraulic pump on the tractor. Is there a rebulid kit for these or just buy a new pump Anybody have any other suggestions. Brad Lewis wrote on Monday, December 05, 2011 (PST):. I have a 300 utility that is pooring out oil while its running. Coming out under tractor in front of transmission, I believe its 80 90 weight oil. What could cause that How could I get hands on directions on how to split tractor and any tips on the best way to do that RJ Rezner wrote on Saturday, December 03, 2011 (PST):.

I have a 300, and I need to know what and where can I find what I need to convert it to 12Volts, and a gas down carb. RJ Rezner wrote on Saturday, December 03, 2011 (PST):. I have a 300, and I need to know what and where can I find what I need to convert it to 12Volts, and a gas down carb. John b wrote on Monday, November 28, 2011 (PST):. ihave an international tractor my brotherinlaw left me when he past. Needs steering box worm gear and bearings i dont know what year it is only number on plate on side of motor is 3668-jw can anyone lead me in the right direction to get parts and manual.

I have steering box apart but i cant get the worm gear out. Thanks in advance if you can help James marbury wrote on Sunday, November 06, 2011 (PST):. I have a International utilty 240 would someone tell me what year the hp this tractor should have are how I can find out it will be very appreciated, James marbury wrote on Sunday, November 06, 2011 (PST):. I have a International utilty 240 would someone tell me what year the hp this tractor should have are how I can find out it will be very appreciate.

Lee Pittman wrote on Tuesday, August 23, 2011 (PDT):. I just recently bought a 1955 International Utilty 300 its been setting in a shed for the past 10 to 15 years i had it running in less than 3 hours. I would like to know what weight of engine oil to run in it and where to check the rearend fluids. Any and all help would be appreciated James Hardy wrote on Wednesday, June 22, 2011 (PDT):. We are looking to purchase a 1957 International 350 Utility.

In checking it out we have found that when the PTO is disengaged it whines. Does this mean there is something wrong w/ the PTO We re buying it to primarily bush hog w/ it. Tim d wrote on Tuesday, April 26, 2011 (PDT):. am looking for a lubrication chart for an International 300 Utility. See quite a few grease fittings, but don t want to miss any.