Wiring Diagram For Revtech 110 Manual

Wiring Diagram For Revtech 110 Manual Average ratng: 3,9/5 2569 reviews

I am new at this but I will give as much info as possible. I have a 100cid Rev Tech. I believe a 2003-04 model with rev tech electronic ignition. Just bought the bike and discovered front cylinder isn't firing when running. There is spark at the plug though and plenty of fuel. I have checked both coils (dual coil single fire) both coil wires, and all connections. Could there just not be enough spark?

Also, the battery was not holding a charge so I pulled the stator out and found that problem. (Although I don't know torque spec for the long nut that holds that front gear on that the belt runs on. I did put it back on with an impact wrench) One of the two wires that go to the plug was cut by the magnet strip in the flywheel. It had started coming out of the flywheel a little and i guess rubbed the wire in two. I wondered if, as the flywheel was cutting into the wire, if that somehow shorted the ignition module and affected how it sends its signal to that front coil. Just put a new stator on and is charging fine now.

Back to the ignition, the status light doesn't light up at all, even when running on one cylinder. I thought maybe timing was off but i actually am able to ride it on one cylinder, as i did it before i realized it was only running on one cylinder.

I knew it sounded kinda funny but it is such a nice bike i never thought there was a problem. The rear cylinder fires fine. It has really got me stumped. Thanks so much. 53 population ecology study guide answers.

Sorry for being long-winded. Forgot to mention that i also checked compression and is just like rear cylinder. Around 155 psi cold. Hi Thanks for being Long-winded, too many guys supply hardly any info. First, the Alternator Rotor is what you are calling the 'flywheel'.

Next, do not toss the stator with the cut wires, with well connected and insulated wire splices, the stator will be as good as new, done it with Zero probs for several years. Ok, here comes the confusion- if there is spark at the plug it simply Must be firing. Do this, remove both plugs, does the front look the same as the rear or is it cooler and wet.

If it look the same well heck, it's firing. Is it Dual-coil Dual plug single fire.?

Or is there only one plug wire to one plug per coil.? Although I've never seen it, I suppose with that weak battery and if it's Dual plug, then the spark is split tween 2 plugs and then Maybe Not stout enough to fire off the charge. If the plug wires were reversed it would Not run at all in single fire cuz the sparks would be totally outa time. Yeah man this is a stumper.

Ok, try this, pull the front plug, ground it and start up, does it run any different than before, if yes, then it was firing before. Me, I would swap coils and wires just for elimination.

I am very interested in what you find if you do the things I sugg. Thanks for helping. It is a dual coil single fire with only 2 plugs. One per cylinder. And yea the front plug is firing but doesn't look quite as intense as the rear. Even if I switch the coils there is no change. Still runs only on back cylinder.

Now, I will explain this as clear as possible, if I cross the plug wires, the front cylinder fires and the rear does not. Answer that one for me?? I am really confused, because if I am thinking correctly, it shouldn't. But believe me it does. So the only thing I can come up with is that something is wrong in the ignition module. I am gonna re-check how it is wired up. My only other thought is that when it was wired the voes wire was attached to something it shouldn't be attached to.

I don't see a voes switch anywhere. Oh and my battery is brand new and fully charged. Hey I just thought of something else. When I do run the engine the exhaust pipe from the rear cylinder heats up pretty quick.

The front pipe is still cold while the rear one is hot. Head is the same way, front is cold while rear is warm/hot.

So I know the front is not working. Well it's obvious when you hear it run as well. Thank you so much for trying to help me figure this out. I am still thinking it's in the module somehow. I even pulled the timing plug on the left side of block, pulled spark plugs, put front cylinder on top dead center and checked timing mark. It was perfect. Hi Jimmy Hey thank you for trying out what is sugg'd, lota guys don't.

Rocker

This really is a stumper. The easiest way to figure out now is this. Borrow a good S-F ign, set it up with current coils and test, or another way, borrow a Two into One S-F coil like the Crane for instance and hook it up to your current Ign. One way will reveal the prob. Prob faster than you trying every diff combo of wiring and switching and plug grounding etc etc.

Heck I have an extra S-F ign or two and coils hanging around I'll send you for testing But heck, I bet you can borrow one there before it arrives. Not knowing if you know this and No offense meant, In all S-F ign I have used, the dark wire (black, blue, purple etc) is the front cylinder and the light wire (pink, white, yellow etc) is the rear cylinder.

Hi NJrider That is always a poss but I once had Three broken valve springs and it still ran like lightening. Thanks so much for your help and input on this Frisco.

Revtech

I am happy to say I have fixed it. Went to my local bike shop this morning and bought a Dyna 2000i ignition. Last night I got to thinking about it, coils were good, plugs and wires were good, compression was good and there was plenty of fuel there. Heck I even thought that maybe one of the ignition wires may have somehow rubbed the frame in route somewhere, so I cut the pink, blue and white wires close to the ignition module and checked them each with a meter and they were not grounded out anywhere so they too were fine. The one thing I did fail to mention before in my posts was that the status light on the module NEVER lit up.

And I know it is at least supposed to blink when the ignition switch is turned on. I just thought maybe the light didn't work cause the little bulb was blown. I guess it was trying to tell me something was wrong by not lighting up. (ha ha) Put the new Dyna in and it fired right up. I was told by a local harley tech to set it on the most aggresive setting and if it runs good (with no detonation) to leave it there. It did, so i left it.

It idles too high now but I adjusted what i believe to be the idle screw and it seems fine. Screw is actually about a 3 inch tube looking thing that comes from carb and kinda hangs there. When i turn it clockwise engine speeds up and naturally slows when i turn it counterclockwise. I just hope i don't need to adjust another screw somewhere to compensate for where I have turned this one. I do know how many turns I did and can put it back for someone that knows what they are doing to fix. Anyway, I tend to get long winded, sorry. But I did want you to know that it was the ignition.

Local tech had nothing negative to say about the actual engine, but did say those rev tech ignitions failed more often than others. And said that rev tech had some issues before the 2000 years but seemed more reliable from 2000 on. I don't know myself but it does run very strong. I was shocked as to the power this thing has. I have had a few crotch rockets in the past and this thing puts them to shame. Again, thanks for your help.

Thanks for your input also JYK. Please help with your solutions. Im very new at this so bare w me. I have a 110 revtech im having problems turning over. It didnt even run when i got it. Took it to the shop,it ran good after for a couple days,fired right up.then started problems with having to try and start it two or thre times to get it to turn over enough to start. Now it wont turn start at all.i try it and itll make one or two rotations then stop.drains battery super quick.some of the new parts that were put on.stator,coil,rotor,ignition module,compression releases,starter.battery and cables.

If i push start it,it fires right up.i keep battery charged on trickle charger,all my connections are good,tried swaping out batteries. I guess what baffles me the most is why last week it started fine and now,about four rides later it wont. Any solutions?

I want to just get a kicker and bypass all the bs but i got laid off and really have to watch my budget for awhile.am i just overlooking something obvious? Please help with your solutions. Im very new at this so bare w me. I have a 110 revtech im having problems turning over. It didnt even run when i got it. Took it to the shop,it ran good after for a couple days,fired right up.then started problems with having to try and start it two or thre times to get it to turn over enough to start. Now it wont turn start at all.i try it and itll make one or two rotations then stop.drains battery super quick.some of the new parts that were put on.stator,coil,rotor,ignition module,compression releases,starter.battery and cables.

If i push start it,it fires right up.i keep battery charged on trickle charger,all my connections are good,tried swaping out batteries. I guess what baffles me the most is why last week it started fine and now,about four rides later it wont.

Any solutions? I want to just get a kicker and bypass all the bs but i got laid off and really have to watch my budget for awhile.am i just overlooking something obvious? Jimmylee, You should probably start your own thread for discussion. It sounds like you have a battery issue.

110 Switch Wiring

With compression releases engaged, it should turn over more than twice. If your compression releases are malfunctioning or are not engaged, it will act like you are describing and will damage your starter if you keep trying to start under those conditions.

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Revtech 110 Spark Plugs

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