. 72 Answers SOURCE: The mobilco sounds like a gar lubricant. I bale myself and work on my own machinery. The first thing you need is the make, model and serial numbers. There shuold be a tag somewhere fastened to the machine. Both of mine have the tag riveted to the flywheel side of the frame.Mine are old john deere balers.

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Balers can be very complicated machines and you need the manual to dial them in right unless you know that machine like the back of your hand. Sometimes you can have tying problems from bad twine that might have been damp or knotters rusty and not moving right. Some times penetrating oil on the moving parts of a knotter will do wonders.

I am assuming that you are talking about an old square baler since I dont know what you have for sure. I started having problems with mine when the twine started wearing a pretty deep groove in one of the parts it dragged across (dont remember which part it was) but anyway, I replaced and reshimmed accordingly, and it ties really good now. Hope I could be of some help.

Posted on Sep 02, 2011. Do you mean the driveline protection shear pin (pickup, roll the bale and wrap it) or the overfill protection shear pin? For the driveline shear pin, check the type of pickup that you have. Make sure that you have the correct shear pin for the pickup (wide or regular). Also check the year of your baler, there are substitute shear bolts available that do not work on a range of the 853 baler. New Holland has a parts list for the baler on their site. Start at and use the Look up parts by equipment on the left of the page or see your manual.

Next check the air bag pressure. (Make sure that you are in the operating range with a regular pressure gauge.

It's possible for the gauge on the baler to read low.) If the pressure is out of the operating range, the roller bars can hit other parts of the baler and cause the shear pin to break. If your baler uses net wrap, make sure that the wrap isn't caught in the unit. (If the knife doesn't cut the net wrap, it will get caught in the tailgate and the rest of the baler.

If it tears in use, it may wrap around the pickup and cause the shear pin to break.) This may apply to twine as well but I do not have experience with it happening with the twine tied 853 baler.) For the rest of the checks, you will have to remove any bale that is in the baler. If it is large enough it may roll out even if it isn't wrapped when the tailgate is up (try driving up hill). Otherwise, you need to pull, cut or pry the bale out. Standing on the kicker can help the bale roll out if sufficient weight is added. We've found that a spare bale spear works well. Removing the hay in small sections can also work. What is the moisture of the bale?

If the bale is too wet, it will be too heavy and shear the pin before the bale chamber is full. Next check all of the roller bars in the unit. If any are bent significantly, that one can hit another part of the baler and break the shear pin. It's possible to straighten some of the bars out depending on the damage. If the bar is S-shaped or severely bent, replace it. (Your New Holland parts store may have someone who will demonstrate the technique for bar straightening. It involves hammering the bar straight when it is securely held in a vise.

If you can hold the bar safely, I've also seen a bucket on a front-loader straighten the bars.) If a rock gets past the windrow guard, the bars can get bent. Check that the chains are centered and that none of the gears are shifted to narrow or wider paths in a spot. (There are bars that can be adjusted between two sets of gears near the top front of the baler.

Loosen the four bolts and push the parts closer or pull them farther apart.) Check that none of the bearings for the apron motion are frozen or damaged. Replace or repair anything that is damaged. Do not make the bales too large or uneven. (If you have a Bale Command unit on the baler, it is easier to control the even formation of the bale.) For the overfill protection, make sure to reset the unit after replacing the shear pin. It can be tough to pull the trip arm fully back. Make sure that nothing is in the tailgate. If your baler has a kicker, make sure that that the two springs on the sides are undamaged and holding the kicker level.

I hope this helps. Cindy Wells (my 853 baler with the wide pickup uses Driveline shear pin 46520 and Overfill shear pin 46047. I'm not sure of the year of the unit. When we got shear pins with a different number, we broke 3 or 4 in a row before realizing that we'd gotten the wrong ones; they were noticably thinner than the required ones.

Roller bars are what I call the bars between the chains and we've replaced/straightened many of them.) Aug 09, 2011.

I'm going today to look at a Case/IH 8430 round baler. I hope to run this behind my Oliver 770.

The owner, who I know, says that the twine cutter doesn't work. I've read on this forum that this is maybe not an uncommon problem on this baler- easy fix?

He also says that it will not start bales in bone dry hay- overly dry hay is usually not a problem where I live- this year is an exception. Are these two problems with this baler something that can be overcome easily enough?

Other comments on this baler? He's asking $4800. I have an older hesston 5530. Twine knife is an easy fix, parts are cheap and available. Pickup problems can be from missing teeth, bent pickup teeth bars, old and worn belts, and operator error. Another point to consider, is does your tractor have a remote, 2 way hyd outlet. Needs down pressure, to latch tailgate door.

Price sounds about a grand rich, if it is in otherwise good shape. Check those tooth bars, the way to check, is to stand to the right side of baler, facing forward, look to your left, and see if the tooth tips line up straight. If there is a belly, in the middle, the bar is bent. Ground hog holes and plow ridges play hell on those bars. Can be re-bent, with a come-a-long, hooked to the rear door. I have a Hesston 530, I think it is the sames bailer. I usually bale around 750-1000 bales a year with mine.

There are some tricks that you will learn if you buy the bailer. IF you take out the 'small hay bar' and have at least 2/3s of the pick up fingers on the pick up it will start a bale in almost anything. I have baled bermuda, bahia, corn stalks and sorghum/suddan grass. I do sometimes have trouble with the twine cutter, but I would not hesitate to buy another one. The price I cannot comment on because that varies by market.

If you have any other questions my email is open. We used one for a few years. I cleaned a lot of hay out of it and got off to cut twine a lot. Things I learned: -Keep twine knife sharp and adjusted -First bale of the season, if you can get it started ok, let it spin and polish the bale chamber for several minutes before moving on.Start a bale slow and let it tumble a bit, as soon as it is turning, walk the hay to her.Don't run the pickup low as the first time it hits the ground and stalls in a heavy windrow your pickup is plugged.When unplugging the pickup, its way faster to kick out whats in the chamber and push the blockage out from the chamber instead of pulling it from the pickup side. Its a good size little baler on a small tractor, we ran it on 45 pto hp in some hills. Makes tight bales.

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They are small though, I hated all the time spent tying bales, then picking them all up. Double spear is a must, anything can carry two bales from it. You can roll them by hand too.

Those balers are not very popular around here. The problems are common and they are NOT easy to fix. The bale starting issue is always an issue with them. The twine cutting is more than likely just a knife that is dull or a twine stop not working. The bigger issue is that they just don't bale very good.

They have a hard time starting bales unless the hay is in perfect shape. The biggest issue I see with the one you are talking about is price. That is way high for one of them around here. Maybe double what it will bring here. $2500-3500 is more in the range around here. Even then they are not a fast seller at any price. I had a Hesston 530 which is either same or similar baler.

I only owned for one season and sold it. Issues I had were what you mentioned - hard to start a bale, and end up laying on your back unplugging. Small bales make for a LOT of stopped tying. Small bales hard in this area to sell, and hard to stab and end up pushing around the field until you get used to them.

Also, a very narrow pickup often spills hay out the sides. I sold mine and drug out my old NH 850 chain baler and still using it which is quite the opposite and if I can drive over it - it will bale it. Only complaint with 850 is somewhat loose bales, but no problems selling the bales so far, and no more waste than the little Hesston.