• 2006 Hyundai Tiburon Manual Transmission
• Hyundai Tiburon Transmission Problems

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Read through these posts. Its not the build quality of the clutch in most circumstances. It is a design addition in the clutch slave cylinder causing premature clutch failure. I have made a dozen posts over the last several years about it.

It is mainly, caused by a delay valve and spring located in the clutch slave cylinder. It makes a pro driver feel like a newbie, and a beginner feel like a pro. It artifically slips the clutch, which makes it smoother to shift, but it causes a great deal of wear. Additionally, it makes the clutch feel 'unnatural', meaning it does not engage immediately after you release the clutch, and it slips too long when you depress it during shifts.

There was NO difference in the part #s between all 2003-2008 Tiburons. Other than the engine used. 2.0 4 cyl, or 2.7 6 cyl.

I have a 2004 2.0. I removed the delay valve at 16K miles and it now has 100K on it. So it isnt a quality thing. Its a design execution failure. REMOVE the clutch slave cylinder spring and the little valve along with it, and your clutch issues will go away. Provided your clutch isn't already damaged beyond repair.

And by all means. If you replace the clutch. REMOVE THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER DELAY VALVE AND SPRING!!!! (The only 2 parts contained within it).

LOL Hope this helps. I have researched alot about the clutch problems. But others say they don't have any problems. Ill be learning to drive manual for the first time and the sales rep at this dealership in Indy says he'll teach me. But anyways i read in this forum about taking out the delay valve as to not burn out the clutch and flywheel. But this is my question. Would it be better to leave the delay valve in and learn how to drive manual or take it out and then learn to drive?

As i didn't see this brought up yet by anyone. Also i was thinking, did Hyundai do this to purposely make the clutch slip as make it easier to learn to drive manual on first and then take out the delay valve so not to hurt the transmission? I need to ask to see if they can inspect the clutch, flywheel. Also which is better the (steel clutch master) or (solid flywheel and clutch by valeo.com) or (clutch master FX100 stg 1 and Fidanza lightweight flywheel.) One more question should i go ahead and replace or see if i can exchange the clutch and flywheel for one of the better ones i mentioned above?

Or should i just go ahead and get rid of the dual-mast flywheel? Because someone said the dual-mast flywheel is the problem, so what do i replace the dual-mast flywheel with? And im trying to think of what is the best combination to do as this is my first manual? So first i have to learn to drive on this stock manual and then after i become great at it what should i do?

I JUST bought a 2007 Hyundai Tiburon gs 2.0 - with only 42k mile.I am going to talk to my mechanic about removing the Clutch Delay Valve. I have only had the car 6 weeks. Don't wanna know how mad I am it's beginning to slip.:lemon: I am glad I found this forum! I have had other manual transmissions, and at first I thought I was doing something wrong.

My other car is a Grand Prix (. Honestly, the stock hyundai clutch isnt bad at all really. If you are looking to juice up your tib, then a stronger clutch isnt a bad idea however. (adding another 100-200 Hp). Almost any aftermarket, performance clutch is excellent.

You will have to replace the flywheel due to its unique, dual mass layout, and the fact it more than likely has hot spots on it, possibly some mild cracking as well. Hard to say because things are unique for each situation.

Removing the clutch slave delay valve alone adds tens of thousands of miles to the stock clutch and brings out real 'feeling' at the pedal. Ive got over 100K on my stocker, but I removed it very early in the cars life so things are still going great. As far as the transmission having issues, Ive have heard of people being rough with the stock layout, and having the clutch disc and pressure plate basically disintegrating.

Sometimes, things are in the wrong place at the wrong time, and things like a bent transmission input shaft (which can ruin the input shaft bearing) can happen as well as the fingers on the pressure plate getting bent, causing all kinds of binding and well.a bad experience. Im glad to see you are looking to do this work correctly.

I can say though, that the stock clutch is totally fine provided you dump that silly clutch delay valve. From then on you can expect many years of trouble free driving. Speaking from real experience.

Best of luck man!:-). Yeah, I am going to talk to my mechanic about the CDV this weekend. So do you think removing the valve will add to wear on the transmission with normal driving?

I think I will just find a reasonable clutch and flywheel if I have to replace it, not concerned about soupin' up the Hyundai. One day when I can afford a Camaro I will look into that!!

Hahaha:shades: I am loving the gas mileage on this thing!!!!:blush: Hopefully it will last for a while at least with the mod. gotta do somethin'. Thanks again for your input!!! It will do the exact opposite. In fact, the feel will remind you of every other clutch made in existance that doesn't use a delay valve!

It will not harm the transmission in any way, and of course, it will allow the clutch to wear normally. Ive driven my Tib a little hard from time to time, and the only thing I get out of things since the removal of the CDV is positive clutch take up. (no slip) and quick response. Additionally, less slipping also means slightly better Mpg. The difference is AMAZING!

The CDV was an attempt to make clutch newbies learn faster (the extra slip means less stalling) at the cost of serious wear however. I would like to personally yell at the engineer that thought that using a delay valve in the clutch slave was a good idea!? Im guessing he drove automatics! LOL Yes, the mileage on the Tib is quite good, and the 2.0 Is a GREAT engine. (I also own a 2005 Elantra with the same great engine, but an automatic) Just be sure to change the timing belt, idler and tensioner (can buy in a kit) at the recommended intervals!

Its an expensive fix if you snap a timing belt and its actually not too difficult to replace. I always get low 30s in the Tib when I drive it reasonably. Having a clutch that works right makes the car a BLAST to drive!:-) Oh. One last note. When you remove the clutch slave delay valve, you will remove the little spring it comes with. The valve has a small hole in it, and 4 square cut outs. (i believe) and it is cylindrical in shape, and the spring goes up inside it partly.

Discard both of these parts, put it back together and bleed the system. Fl guidance counselor certification study guide. I have a 2008 Tibby and,after reading all your messages regarding the clutch slave cylinder, I wonder if by removing it, will my clutch problem be resolved. I bought the car new.

It Now has has 65k miles on her. As I let the clutch out in first gear she shutters. With a little more gas, I can usually enjoy a smooth release. The problem is only related to first gear and been going on for the last 5k miles. Should I remove the valve and spring or replace the entire clutch and remove the valve and spring? Thanks for sharing all your knowledge.

Honestly, It sounds like you already are in need of a new clutch. The 'shuddering' you are experiencing is called 'clutch judder' and it is caused by a warped flywheel and likely the pressure plate as well. What it is, to be more specific, is high spots created when the metal of the flywheel has warped into a new position by heat of a slipping clutch. This position creates a not so smooth surface for the clutch friction disc to be sandwiched between the pressure plate and flywheel. The flywheel is often cracking as well, and that speeds up the process. In my honest opinion, I would replace the whole thing.

The flywheel, friction disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing and the pilot bearing. Absolutely get that clutch slave delay valve removed ASAP! Anytime is a good time!

I wish I could give you a more positive answer, that would save you money now, but it sounds like your clutch is already done sadly. If at all possible, get it done as soon as you can and avoid driving it if it all possible until you are ready to repair it. If you get a nuclear clutch (as I like to call it) it could really damage things, including the transmission itself if you keep driving on it! OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) is actually pretty good stuff, so if you aren't needing a racing clutch for any extra power you might add to the car, Id go stock, or buy a good quality OEM style replacement from say, Oreilly's or Autozone. As far as for the Flywheel, Im not sure if there are any aftermarket companies making them. (although they should be by now honestly) so there might not be alot of alternatives.

If there are, shop around. You could also save some money buying a kit online!

Good lucK!:shades. You might check with some forums on people who have used the kit you are mentioning, and maybe do some additional comparisons with other kits, and see if anyone has had any bad results, etc. I dont think going with a chrome moly flywheel is a bad idea honestly, however, one thing to note, is once that Clutch Slave Delay Valve is removed, you will be experiencing much less slipping, so there will be considerably less heat and wear on every clutch part.

Unless you are banging your gears hard, nearly daily, or are lightly/heavily modified, I really don't think stock is all that bad and might be considered. The $300.00 price you are mentioning is pretty low.

Almost inexpensive really (considering it is a complete kit with a flywheel) but I really don't know much about the manufacturer, so you might do some more research before plunking the cash down, and me getting all nervous you might get an inferior product. Sometimes, the Ebay stuff has some pretty crappy chinese items that are so cheap, its crazy, but some are actually not bad at all. Also, keep note of shipping because that low cost kit could be way more spendy once they include a really high shipping fee (due to the weight) and that could end up being more or at about the same price as something nearby where you live, and you could just go buy it that way. Just stuff to consider there.

Good luck dude. Clutch went out at 65k miles.really! (Never will I again purchase another Hyundai). Was told it would cost $1800 to $2200 to replace. Found a Valeo/Bahnhof clutch kit with flywheel on EBay for $300. Found an SAE mechanic on Craigslist to install it for $280.

Less than $600 I have a new clutch that is far smoother than its crappy predecessor. If you are considering Hyundai, think twice. They use inferior parts. You may be saying to yourself, 'But they have a 5 year/100k mile warranty'. Tell that to the other people on this site complaining about the same thing. Spare yourself the frustration of being told you don't know how to drive a clutch, just buy a Honda or Toyota. I know you will not regret it.

Hopefully Hyundai will. Sucks you are having trouble. You arent the only one, but I will say this. Once I took out the clutch slave delay valve, early in my tibbys life, the clutch has 110K on it now, with ZERO issues. The quality of the clutch is usually decent, although there are times you might get a defective part(s) from time to time. The clutch is not made in house by hyundai. They are sourced out by an outside supplier like most car companies do on a regular basis.

2006 Hyundai Tiburon Manual Transmission

In many cases, alot of parts in todays cars are not made in house, and the clutch might be sourced by the same people who make them for Toyota or Honda. It is typically, cheaper to get parts from companies that are already tooled up to make the said parts.

The warranty is actually great with Hyundai (I have had some little things replaced under warranty), but the clutch, brakes, wipers and other wear items are not covered for a reason. There are alot of differences in how people drive the cars. But, for me, the clutch delay valve is really a execution flaw, not a design flaw. The engineers had to know it wasnt a great idea to make a clutch slip more than it should, and expect them to last with that kind of slipping. Clutches wear when slip occurs (and it wears slowly over time in a normal clutch with no delay valve) everytime you shift gears and is totally normal. It is totally unneeded to try and appeal to newbie clutch drivers that wanted the lower cost of a manual transmission, and expected automatic smooth driving from it!

Thats why it is an 'execution' problem. Not a design flaw perse.

I love my tibby and being someone who has one, it truly isnt a quality issue in 9 out of 10 cases. I also dont exactly drive like a grandma, but I can say. Taking the clutch slave delay out was the smartest thing I ever have done in my car and will prevent future clutch failures if you get it out early enough, or when you have to replace a clutch prematurely.

Best of Luck. I am yet another unsatisfied customer of the tiburon. Mine is a 2006 with a v6 engine, 2.7 liter, 6 speed transmission and 111000 miles.

I love it but its so expensive because of the clutch, the clutch literally cant make it past 6 months. Its nothing to do with my driving, i dont ride the clutch or lug it or anything. Iv replaced it twice now and the second time i replaced it, i told my mechanic about the clutch delay valve, and i asked him to remove it. Unfortunately, he told me it wasnt in the slave master cylinder. I took it home for myself and looked, and he was rite, i was not there. Its been a few months since then and iv been avoiding driving my car as much as posible so the clutch wont go out again, sadly, i am trying to sell it.

But if i can solve the issue i may consider keeping it. I have no idea what kind of clutch my mechanic put in my car. Would a heavy duty clutch do any good? Or would it just extend the life of the clutch by a coupel months? Well, if the delay valve is already out, but you have since replaced a 2nd clutch, then the next thing to look at is if the job was done correctly. #1 first and foremost, the flywheel MUST be replaced!

If it isn't, (after all the slipping) it will cause ANY clutch to fail again, no matter what parts you use to replace them (pressure plate, throwout bearing and friction disc) The dual mass flywheel is the most spendy part, but its also the most important. From what I understand, doing a resurface doesn't typically get rid of the microcracking due to heat. It tends to go pretty deep into the flywheel surface, and affects balance. Start removing metal, and the heat levels during any slipping will increase.

(which is every time you engage the clutch.) The next possibility is the Input shaft bearing is damaged, and is 'moving around'. When it does that, the friction disc isn't in the same place each time you depress the clutch.

Say,.010 thousands is enough to potentially cause problems. With problems, I mean premature clutch wear. Still, the thing that started the whole mess originally (the car was factory with the delay valve installed) the transmission input shaft very well might need looked at for good measure. Sometimes, the clutch kits can be defective as well. Id look up the parts kit online and see if anyone else is having the same trouble. Where the mechanic sources parts DOES matter and Id ask where they bought it, or if you did personally, research them. Some mechanics buy the cheapest kits, and sell them to a customer for added profit.

Not all people keep their vehicles more than 5 years, so if you look at that aspect alone, some mechanics figure 'they will not see another problem' during that time, and you will be 'out of their hair'. Hope you get this figured out. Well looks like another clutch/duel mass balance flywheel (DMBF) problem in my sons '07 V6 5-speed Tiburon with. Said: BTW I also found it interesting that this thread did not show up in an internal search of the Edmunds website even with 3 of the 4 key words from the heading in the search? Glad to hear your problem worked out.

With regard to the search, where did you search that this discussion wouldn't come back on the results? I've tried every combination of the discussion title in the search and this thread always shows up.

Could have been a temporary search glitch, but if you've run into a gremlin, we'll be happy to squash it! A sucker is born every minute! After reading the on-line glowing reviews, I bought a 2003 Tiburon GT with 58,000 miles for my grandson to drive. 300 mile later, I replaced clutch, hydraulic cylinder, and flywheel to the tune of $3700. Now its back to the dealer 1000 miles later for exactly the same thing. The first time I Googled Tiburon and clutch, and this forum came up. Too bad I couldn't have seen it before I bought the car!

Hyundai Tiburon Transmission Problems

The dealer won't warrant their work or parts and want another $3700. I told them to file a mechanics lien and keep the car. Great looking car, the the worst car I have ever owned in 60 years of owning cars, including many thrashers in early life. BUYER, BEWARE! After reading about the issues of the 2004 Tiburon transmission, what can a person do if they just bought the car used and is no warranty and you really don't have the money to replace what needs replaced? My Tiburon is both manual and auto so I don't know if that makes it a bit harder or what but the jerking is getting really bad now and I really like my car, it's my first ever car my husband bought me in Feb and we can't afford to get a different car right now.

He changed the tranny fluid and and everything still nada. I don't even know if I could sell it as is to someone willing to put in the work so I can get a diff car. Has there been a recall on these cars or anything. I'll Admit I havent read ALL the comments so if this was answered I apologize. From my own experience with an Acura Integra, I can tell you NEVER EVER TRUST the dealer for ANYTHING. I went the route of purchasing aftermarket parts, especially performance parts.

I solved my clutch problems by installing a 'stage-2' performance clutch. Now this might appear a little overkill, but for you Tib owners with clutch problems, you will never have any more clutch-flywheel problems IF you install performance parts for your Tiburon. I strongly suggest purchasing from the folks I got mine from -although they don't have specifically Tiburon clutches, they DO have Genesis clutches - which anybody with half a brain cell knows the Tiburon is the predecessor to the Genesis, so they should work just fine.

Don't EVER settle for OEM Dealer parts if you don't have to. There are cases where you have to buy from the dealer because there might not be a particular aftermarket part you're looking for, but 90% of the time, you JUST don't need to.