York Air Conditioner Wiring Guide
In Article ' ', which was the first Article in our new Course HVAC-2: Electrical Rules and Calculations for Air-Conditioning Systems, I explained the following points:. Introduction for Air-Conditioning Systems Types,.
Introduction for Types of Motors/Compressors used in Air-Conditioning Systems. And in Article ' ', I explained the following points:. Importance of Electrical Wiring for Air Conditioning Systems,. How to get the Electrical Wiring for Air Conditioning systems?,. Types of Electrical Wiring Diagrams For Air Conditioning Systems,.
How to read Electrical Wiring Diagrams? Today, I will explain Electrical Wiring for different Air-Conditioning Systems Types and Equipment. A rotating selector/Mode switch marked with a hot-cold scale of five positions (off, high cool, low cool, high fan, low fan) with no temperature settings. A rotating Thermostat switch work as on/off switch for the compressor, its status is depending on what temperature/cooling degree you set it at (usually there are 8 positions for cooling degree). Louvers swing switch: it is on/off switch which controls the swing motor responsible for controlling the movement and direction angle in which the air be supplied from the louvers to the room. The branch circuit will originate from one of the single pole/three pole Overcurrent protective device OCPD included in an electrical panel. Then go through raceway system (conduits, ducts, ) to a disconnect means of some type suitable for the application.
After that, the main power cord of the split air conditioning unit is connected to this disconnecting means from one side, the other side is connected to the terminal box in the indoor unit (see Fig.9) or in the outdoor unit (see Fig.10)according to the manufacturer’s recommendations and wiring diagrams. Unitary packaged systems (see Fig.28) are by far the most commonly used air conditioning equipment in commercial buildings. A packaged air conditioning unit is a self-contained air conditioner. It provides the cooling, heating and the motion of the air. All the components needed for cooling, heating, and air movement are assembled in a steel casing. Most packaged units use semi hermetic compressors which mean that the motor and compressor unit are mounted in one housing.
Fig.28: Rooftop packaged units Construction. Unitary Packaged units are packaged units which come as one single package that is ready to be mounted on a rooftop or on ground floor for some types. Rooftop packaged units can be classified according to the type of heating they supply.
York Air Conditioner Wiring Guide
There are rooftop packed units with either electric heating or gas-fired heating. The heating can also be provided by a heat pump. However, electric heat and gas-fired furnaces are mainly used. The available cooling capacity of common packaged rooftop units ranges from 10 kW (3 tons) to 850 kW (241 tons). The air flow rate covers a range from 400 l/s (850 ft3/min) to 37,800 l/s (80,000 ft3/min).
What you will learn from How to Wire an Air Conditioner for Control - 5 Wires article:. this article includes a comprehensive list showing thermostat wire terminations for an air conditioner and a source of heat that includes five wires. a detailed description of where each wire goes in the air handler and condenser and what it controls. a detailed diagram illustrating where the wires go for 5 wire air conditioner and heating system control. resource and related links to help you with wiring and installing a thermostat. How to Wire an Air Conditioner for Control - 5 Wires How to Wire an Air Conditioner for Control - 5 Wires – The diagram below includes the typical control wiring for a conventional. It includes a thermostat, a condenser, and an air handler with a heat source.
The heat source for a basic AC system can include or even a hot water coil inside the air handler that is fed from a water heater. Every conventional residential AC system uses 24-volts for the control of the system. All the relays in the system have 24-volt coils.
Circuit boards or printed circuit boards found in modern systems utilize 24-volt control which originates from the control transformer. Typical systems that do not use 24-volt control are window unit air conditioners, ductless mini split systems, and baseboard electric heating systems. If you are unsure about the control voltage of your system consult an HVAC professional as some appliances use high voltage and this can be dangerous.
Related Link: is used for all control wiring.(opens in a new window). The R terminal is the 24-volt hot feed from the that will power the relay, contactor, or complete the circuit in the circuit board feeding it with 24 volts when the thermostat calls for whatever it is set for. The W terminal is for heating including the heating for gas furnaces, electric furnaces, boiler systems and the backup heat for heat pumps.
The G terminal is the. It is the fan that circulates air throughout the ductwork system. The Y terminal is the terminal that will turn on the air conditioner and typically is terminated at the compressor contactor in the condensing unit located outside. It will be one of the few control wires (thermostat wires) that will terminate at the condenser in a split system air conditioner and heating system. Typically, the yellow wire will be ran to the air handler where at the air handler this wire is usually connected to another wire (typically by wire nut but could be connected via a terminal strip in the air handler) and then ran outside to the condensing unit along with at least one other wire in an air conditioner split system set up.
The other control wire will be the common wire need at the compressor contactor where the coil in the compressor contactor needs a hot and a common from the control transformer to work. Finally, the C terminal is the common terminal and this terminal feeds the common side of the load from the control transformer. Wanted to say thank you. I recently graduated from Manatee Technical College here in Florida. With one year to learn EPA, R-410A,ESOC-HVAC ELECTRICAL,AIR CONDITIONING,OSHA,FORKLIFT,FIRST AID,CPA. Going over the basics threw your videos has helped me.
Having three awesome instructors with three different ways of doing things. One might get confused. Of course I bought the service guide by Michael Prokup and 25th edition air conditioning books. I want to be prepared when that new job comes my way. I have just about all my tools and ready to work.
Thank you again sir.The person you mentioned in the initial comment is no longer a part of the website. We will pass your comments on to him though. Thanks for visiting. Techs are thieves that’s why they refuse to answer any questions on the internet concerning your issues unless you want to pay a service call, otherwise they’d rather rob you like they did the American Indians while kicking them off they’re own land so they could live on it. Your information was helpful.
Editors Note: Sorry, I disagreethere are so many different scenarios for refrigeration, electrical, and other related things concerning HVACit is so much to answer anyone over the internet or even the telephone especially in the sue happy society we have here in the USA. So I recommend you either go to school and learn about it yourself and fix it yourself or pay a contractor to work on it for you. Not all techs are dishonest and not all HVAC contractors are dishonest. The same with car mechanics and any other technical related trade or service.
Not everyone is dishonest but there are some. Hi, Just bought a house that was wired with aluminum wiring. Decided to change it all over to copper. Got everything cut over, but didn’t change out any of the high voltage wiring for stove, oven and A/C. I have an A/c w/gas heat. After I cut out all the old aluminum wiring and everything else in the house is working fine, I noticed that my thermostat doesn’t have any power. I had assumed that the high voltage wires handled all the air conditioning systems.
I went into the attic and I notice that there is a 12 or 14 gauge aluminum wire going into the air handler and it’s now dead because I cut all of the 12 and 14 gauge aluminum wiring. Question: Is this why my thermostat is off?
What are the power requirements for replacing that cable? In other words, do I need to run a dedicated cable from the panel or is it fairly low amperage that I can just feed a cable from another source such as a nearby outlet. There is also a high amperage cable going to the air handler and I’m again assuming that it supplies all the high amperage needs of the air handler.
Thanks for any help. The power for your thermostat typically originates from the air handler from a step-down transformer. In a few rare cases, the transformer is installed in the condensing unit but that is not the norm. If you cut either the thermostat wire (usually 18 gauge multiple conductors in one jacket) or the line voltage going to the air handler then that would definitely kill the power to the thermostat. The wire size for the line voltage depends on the ampacity requirements of the unit itself. And aluminum wire is sized differently than copper wire according to the NEC tables so you first need to figure out the ampacity requirements for the unit and then follow the NEC tables for wire size. This is not advice but the typical straight air conditioner or gas furnace (as opposed to a heat pump with electric heat strips) could possibly use 12 or 14 gauge copper for the air handler with controls and a fractional horsepower blower.
I can’t stress the importance of making sure you do this the right way and calling in an electrician or HVAC company to do this as using undersized wire would create a fire hazard. Using the proper wire size and breakers is very important to prevent a possible fire hazard. Sizing requirements are in the NEC for HVAC equipment. Thanks Richard, I didn’t cut the thermostat wire. I cut the aluminum wiring at the breaker panel in the basement.
I pulled all new copper wiring throughout the house, but apparently missed that one of the cables went to the air handler in the attic. As I said, I ‘assumed’ that all the high amperage cables, which I didn’t changeover were all that supplied the A/C system. LOL I guess my main question at this point is whether or not the 12/14 gauge cable that I cut has to be run as a dedicated circut as the built in microwave, dishwasher now has to be by code or can I just pull a cable from a nearby outlet?
A dedicated cable, of course, has to go all the way back to the circuit panel.